Clive Darby is one stylish fellow. Previously a key player at Richard James and then Kilgour, he has created wardrobes for PMs, film stars and captains of industry. And he knows one thing for sure: ‘Englishmen love their fashion. They have fun with it, create their own style.’ Which is exactly what he’s trying to encourage with Rake, his new luxury label, a collection entirely composed of separates. We spoke to Clive about how to pep up your jacket with a simple pocket square.
‘You can be wearing a jacket all day and then you pop in a pocket square, and it becomes something else,’ says Clive. ‘It immediately makes it more dressy.’
Fold your pocket square in half…
…then in half again.
Turn both corners to the centre so they overlap slightly.
Fold in half again, so the corners line up.
Place the flat side into the bottom of the pocket.
Fan the corners.
Clive’s top tips
- ‘In order to stop it looking too bulky, use fine silk so you can fold it easily – the trick is not to do too many folds. Keep it simple. Don’t keep folding it and folding it; try to balance it out so that it fits the pocket.
- Pick up on a shade that’s maybe already there in your tie or in the details of your jacket. With, say, a white pocket square with a blue trim, worn against a navy jacket, you get the best of both worlds: complementary and contrasting colours. The same is true of the brown and paisley combination. The pocket square is predominantly ruby red, but it’s actually the blue in it that works so well with the waffle weave of the jacket.’