Bone Daddies noodle bar is winning praise for its flavour-crammed bowlfuls of ramen served with optional pipettes of extra fat. We tied our hair back (elastics are provided) and joined chef-owner Ross Shonhan at the stock pot to find out what makes his ramen rock.
The first rule of ramen is: no rules. There are as many different versions as there are ramen chefs, but the foundations are wheat noodles and chicken or pork stock, with soy, seaweed, chilli, spring onion, egg… ‘There’s so much in a bowl of ramen,’ says Ross, well-versed Japanophile and former head chef at Zuma in Knightsbridge. ‘And, whatever anyone says, there’s no right or wrong – this is a dish that is very much still evolving. Ramen chefs are the punk chefs of Japan. The key is that a bowl of ramen must be delicious.’
Straight off the Bone Daddies menu, here we present Ross’s tantanmen ramen. The name is an interpretation of dandan noodles, a Chinese dish popular in Japan, and one of the more recent ramen flavours. Sesame-laced and indulgently mouth-filling, with plenty of vitamin P, this is ideal to do on a Monday/Tuesday following a big pork roast. Prepare the stock a day in advance. The ingredients list is long, but the method isn’t arduous or tricky – the key is to get well prepared with everything to hand.